Installing Y-Dash On Aprilia Tuareg Rally To Test Y-Dash View
When it’s time to test new hardware or software, we like to choose unusual bikes or cars. This time we picked up from our collection a ’91 Aprilia Tuareg Rally 50. Altought it has a very small 2 strokes engine, this bike is light and fast, and has plenty of room for our electronics gadgets.
The goal of this mod, is the installation of a Y-Dash unit, and the replacement of the stock dashboard with a permanently mounted Android device. We had a Samsung J3 laying around, so this has been our first choice. This is a cheap phone, but the app doesn’t require high end hardware.
Wiring the Y-Dash unit
The wiring diagram of this bike is pretty standard, let’s connect the GREEN wire to the neutral switch, and the RED wire to the tachometer wire of the CDI unit.
Y-Dash unit has a oil pressure light input (for 4 stroke engines), we’ll use it to monitor the oil level in the tank. This bike has a on-off float that switches to ground when the oil level is low, we’ll connect it to the ORANGE wire of the unit.
Like most mopeds, lights run on AC current. We want to improve lighting efficiency by installing led head lights, but this requires DC conversion for high beam. This will also allow us to directly connect the high beam signal to Y-Dash. (PINK wire)
As speed source, we will install a wheel hall effect sensor that senses the brake disc bolts. It has 3 wires, 2 of them are for power supply, the signal wire will be connected to the blue wire of the unit. The wheel circumference is 2099 mm, there are 6 reference bolts. The value we’ll need later to set the speedometer is 2099 / 6 = 350.
The 2 turn signals will not be monitored on the dashboard, instead we will repurpose these inputs (BROWN and GREY wires) to switch between different dashboards, and to open the garage door respectively. They are now connected to a racing style buttons cluster.
- yellow – garage door open
- green – dashboard switch
- white – not in use
- blue – high beam (LED)
- red – engine start
all buttons are momentary, except the blue one, that toggles the high beam led. Y-Dash unit is powered via the YELLOW (+) and BLACK (-) wires. A 12v usb charger is also connected to the bike to provide power to the smartphone, enabling the usage of Power Launcher. This widget completely automates the phone connection and standby when usb power is toggled.
Because this bike has 2 headlights, we removed the right incandescence lamp and installed the led in place of it.
The left lamp is still powered by ac current, while the led runs on dc. We bought a H7 lamp with integrated fan, it required just a bit of work to mount it on the stock adapter.
In a standard configuration, analog channels in Y-Dash are dedicated to fuel level and coolant temperature. This bike doesn’t have a fuel level sensor neither a temperature sensor. We installed a ntc temperature sensor on the cylinder head to monitor the coolant temperature and connected it to the PURPLE wire of Y-Dash.
The sensor is a 1/8 thread automotive ntc sender, it will be calibrated later with the Y-Dash unit.
The tank of this bike doesn’t contain a fuel level sensor. We didn’t want to bother installing one, so we decided to use the white analog channel to monitor air temperature. The ntc sensor is connected to the WHITE wire of Y-Dash. The other lead of the sensor is connected to ground. Just like the coolant sensor, the ambient temperature sensor will be calibrated later.
Y-Dash unit was secured to the frame with zip ties, under the fuel tank, well protected against the rain.
As said previously, the heart of the dashboard is a Samsung Galaxy J3 6. We wanted to get rid of the stock gauges, and use all the available space for the new dashboard. After having modeled the cockpit, the 3d printer did the rest of the job.
The material used is PETG, easy to print, strong and durable, the same we use to print Y-Dash enclosures.
The base (left part in the pictures) has keys to perfectly match the stock dashboard mount, while the center spacer has an opening to allow the usb connection.
The parts are joined using M3 screws. The small hole on the right, allows the home button to be pressed, just in case. Note the usb cable on the right side.
Y-Dash View allows custom dashboards to be uploaded, so we made 2 different graphics that will be switched using the green button on the handlebar. To do so, just create an “action” with Y-Dash Builder that switches between dashboards when BROWN channel goes high. The first dashboard is for road use, it features total and trip kilometers, time, speed and rpm, and few other info. The second is for track use, most of the screen area is reserved to laptimer, and only “racing info” are shown.
Another handy action we added allows the garage door to be opened when the yellow button is pressed. This requires a hardware setup on the garage door side using a smart relay like Itead Sonoff, and a software setup on the IFTTT website that triggers the relay when a encrypted command is sent from Y-Dash View. The configuration of IFTTT webhooks will be the scope of a dedicated post. The dashboards can be downloaded using the links at the end of this page. You can open and edit them with Y-Dash Builder. Click on the image to download the dashboards projects and unzip it on your hard drive, you will need Y-Dash Builder to open and edit them.
- Tachometer – sparks per 2 revolutions = 2
- Speedometer – Source = wheel
- Speedometer – Unit = kilometers
- Speedometer – mm per sector = 350 (wheel circ / 6 bolts)
- Purple channel – loaded h2o sensor file
- White channel – loaded air temp file
- Gear indicator – calibration on road
- IFTTT Webhooks – personal key entered
- IFTTT Webhooks – command 1 set to open gate